Saturday, May 11, 2013

Passo del Ghisallo – da Bellagio


My sleep was restless last night, thinking about the climb. I’ve been training on hills, but I was still apprehensive. As I packed my things this morning, my heart was already racing in anticipation of the climb. It raced even more when we had to run down the stairs, in cycling shoes, and back up to the correct train platform. (I opted to take the train to Como and start from there rather than starting in Lugano. That way I didn’t add 40 miles to the ride.)

The ride from Como to Bellagio was on a narrow road that traversed along the banks of Lake Como. Lots of ups and downs as the narrow road weaved it’s way for 20 miles.  It was gorgeous seeing all of the tiny villages, waterfalls, tunnels, and stonewalls as we overlooked Lake Como.

We had a brief stop in Bellagio to have a mini Cliffbar - which are very hard after 9 months waiting to be eaten! I also checked out the high tech ½ Euro toilet. Put your coin in, the door opens and shuts automatically, push button toilet paper dispenser, automatic soap and water faucets. Push the button to exit and when you walk out the door closes automatically and then the WC has a self-cleaning cycle!

Then we were off….it wasn’t marked, but we figured it must be the road up and out of Bellagio. Soon we saw the official starting line, and we were off. Not far after the start I saw a 14% grade sign; YIKES! I knew I just had to go slow and steady, and at my own pace. I remember thinking mile 24 would never end. Every time I looked at my computer it said 24; how could that be? Once I passed 24 miles, the miles seemed to go faster. I felt like I had permission to feel tired when the cars that passed were really chugging away up the hill. However I also thought, if the car motors had to work hard, what must my legs be thinking trying to climb this hill?

I drained the last drop of my Camelbak about 2/3rds of the way up. I stopped at a park to try to get water, but no such luck. We continued on through a town and still couldn’t find a water spigot. Finally I saw a restaurant and they were very nice and filled my Camelbak. The only problem was that it was on a fairly steep grade, and I’m not very good at pushing off and getting going fast enough to get my pedals clipped in. I took off perpendicular to the road and still fumbled with my cleats for a few strokes before I got clipped in, scary! Only two more miles to go!

To my total astonishment, just after we got going up the grade, I saw the sign for Ghisallo! I really thought we had two more miles to go! What a welcomed surprise!

I was thrilled to have made the climb (thanks Sue Anderson for your inspiration and motivation) and appreciated wandering around the park, checking out the church with all of the old bikes, jerseys and medals offered to Our Lady of Ghisallo; Madonna of Ghisallo - the patron saint of cycling. It was a bustling with many cyclists. 

We went the short, steep route up to Ghisallo, and the longer way back to Como – no steep switchbacks! I was even able to get into a tuck a few times during the10.4 mile descent! Then there were a few rolling hills to get back to the train station in Como, and up the hill to my apartment in Gentilino.

What a perfect 50 mile day! Now I need to focus on hiking to be ready to climb Kilimanjaro in just over a month. I hope the summit surprises me like Ghisallo did!






Our Lady of Ghisallo; Madonna of Ghisallo 






552 meters up, 1811 feet
Steepest grade – 14%
Average grade - 5.2%
6.6 miles



Saturday, April 6, 2013

Cagliari Nature

During my last days in Cagliari I found a guide who led Land Rover trips and explained all about the botany, geology, ecology and local history. I really appreciated being able to get out of the city and into nature. We rode way into the backwoods and up to mountaintops on very rugged roads. The vistas were amazing!







Cork tree - Sardinia is the third largest exporter of cork.





















Friday, April 5, 2013

Cagliari - Learning Italian

My teaching friends can relate well to this! That “deer eyes in the headlights” look – that fit me to a "T"! I did a home stay in Cagliari to be immersed in Italian, and I was immersed! The couple I stayed with was very nice, however they knew very little English, and always spoke to me in Italian. There were many times when I had no clue what they were saying! And if I thought I understood what they said, who knows if what I thought they said was really what they did say! Even when they spoke slower, or louder, I was often still clueless.

I had a wonderful private tutor who was patient and explained things well. Sometimes she would be talking to me, and all of a sudden I would realize that I was listening in Italian and was actually understanding what was being said! And then that realization would break my concentration and I would get lost again! I learned a lot, however I have A LOT yet to learn. There is so much for me to process and so I really need thinking time before I can speak, and understand what’s being said.

My lessons ended about noon, however I really didn’t enjoy having the afternoons to myself. I wish that I had had friends to do things with. I also really missed my bike. I tried to rent a bike, but the shop couldn’t give me recommendations for safe places to ride, and I couldn’t find any group rides. To get some kind of exercise I walked, and walked and walked and walked, all over Cagliari, sometimes for 6 hours a day. Finally I found a sign in a sporting goods shop for Asfodelo Trekking! I emailed, in Italian, and asked if I could go on the trip. Yay! He said yes! Read my Baunie Blog to find out all about it!

Cagliari was a typical Italian town where everything closes up from about 1:00 to about 5:00.  We ate dinner sometime after 8:30. Meri was a very gracious hostess and I think she felt obligated to be sure I was more than full every night! The topics of our dinner conversations, in Italian, included Italian politics and their economy, Obama, the pope, soccer, their B & B, plus Italian lessons for me.  I wonder how much of the conversations I really understood?!

Cagliari was a charming town; I hope you enjoy the photos!

Meri, Andrea and Pipo













The biggest skeleton key ever.

One of many skinny street I love!
Two person max old fashion elevator. I only used it to move in and out.
It barely fit me, my backpack and a small suitcase.